Friday, March 7, 2025

Camino Portugues Day 9: Coimbra to Sernadelo

I didn't want to leave my nice comfy room this morning.  I was supposed to be at the cafe at 7 but I was having trouble getting out the door.  I brought the key downstairs and when I could find noone about I realized I should have left it upstairs.  I found a guy setting up breakfast and gave it to him.


We had coffee on the main square in a place filled with locals before work.  Leaving town we followed the river instead of noodling around all the churches we saw yesterday.


We quickly hit our first cafe at about 5km and had more coffee.  I expressed interest in a savory pastry which this bar didn't have.  Francisco mysteriously ran off a few minutes later and brought back two hot empanada-like pastries.  One had a shrimp filling and the other pork.  The grease stained the paper bag they were in and they were delicious.


A few km after that we noticed what looked like Pilgrims behind us.  They caught up the next coffee stop.  Two young American girls, not all that chatty.  We made stuff up about them.  We didn't know what were we to do.  At that stop the bar/market asked Pilgrims to write on the walls.  Most of the store was well tagged.


We passed the American girls as they picniked in the woods.  We made up more backstory for them.


Soon we were a few kilometers from the roast suckling pig we had been dreaming about all day.  Last night there was a heated discussion as to the best suckling pig in this town which is famous for it.  We were targeting the top recommendation.  And we were getting closer.


Finally, we walked in and it was a large new restaurant and it was quite crowded.  The pig was excellent.  The home made potato chips were really good.  Jeanne and I split a bottle of vino Verde ... delicious and refreshing.  Francisco ate a desert as big as his head.  Great meal.


Near the end of the meal the rain started coming down hard.  So hard we would have been drenched walking the last 1.5km to the albergue.  We opted to take a taxi; it was the wise call.  This place is Spartan and arriving cold and wet would have been miserable.  My room as no heat or at least no heat you can control.


After our large and late lunch we had no need to go out.  Jeanne and Francisco picked up some snacks and mini beers.  They had upgraded from the dorm to a double Pilgrim room like mine.  The dorm was a room with a lot of beds and it was supposed to be full tonight.


Early night tonight.  Lots of rain in the forecast tomorrow.







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