Cheater!
My feet were in terrible shape yesterday. Taking the taxi was the correct call. Based on what Francisco said of the route my feet would have been shredded on the hills.
I slept pretty well last night. I woke for a bit and finished the blog but went back to sleep and woke at 8:30. I had some of my meal from last night for breakfast. I washed yesterday's clothes but they weren't going to dry. In no time it was 11 and I had to leave.
I walked over to the restaurant, which was closed, and left the fork sticking up in a flower pot at the front door. I bought water and a banana, and went to meet Jeanne at the coffee shop between our accommodations.
At 11:30 we went to the end of the street by the bridge and waited a minute or two for the taxi. A black Audi A4 showed up as promised and we were off. We were in Alvaiázere at our hotel about 20 minutes later. A whole day's walking.
We were checked in early by a guy with a Basil Fawlty demeanor. I tried to tell him I had the 37€ deluxe room with a view but he just said "No!" and gave me the common Pilgrim room for 20€. He was such an odd and strange guy. He led Jeanne off to her room with points and grunts. He came back for me and led me to mine with points and grunts. Later when Francisco arrived he was equally brusk so it wasn't a language thing. Francisco a little later talked to the woman here and she said he was always like that and she gave Francisco a room upgrade to "a really nice room with a view". That was my room!
After Jeanne and I dropped off our stuff we went to explore the town. I saw her sitting on the steps and walked right into the glass door.
This is the strangest town. It looks like a 1960s city planner designed it and then the worst architects of the period designed all the buildings and houses. It is a charmless little town with few people walking around. The people we did see seemed grumpy Lots of concrete and weird designs. I'm sure at one time it was thought to be so modern.
We found an open bar and ordered beer. Several beers later we thought it wise to get some food. We walked around town and did not find much. The girl at one bar said her mother was out and she was the one who cooked. She directed us down the street. I had some bean and cabbage stew with various meats. It was good.
We headed back to the hotel and I had a little siesta. When Francisco arrived we met him and let him shower before we all went out for his welcome to town drink. We went to the bar with the girl to spread business around town. After the afternoon beers we were all non-alcoholic ... and cheesecake.
Throughout the day my feet have been improving. Tomorrow should be good to go. At the last bar we were doing some planning to Coimbra and it's an awkward stretch. Tomorrow is a shorter day (24km) but that leaves 37km to Coimbra but there aren't many places to stay in the section. It might be worth taking a long day and two nights in Coimbra.
We met for dinner in the hotel restaurant at 7:30. It seems to be the best restaurant in town and it is close. Basil was our waiter and he was more interested in giving us food of his choice. Francisco would be asking him questions and he would walk away and bring us what he wanted. Vino? Yes, just two glasses, please. He puts down a litre carafe. Desert? Is this good? You are about to find out.
The food was pretty good. My beef was good but a little less than done for an American. Jeanne was horrified how cooked it was. Francisco ate most of the raw parts for me. His roast lamb was so good. I wish I had gotten that. Jeanne had a potato and cod casserole. Good but a lot of the same taste.
To bed early and and early start. 7:15 at the cafe for coffee.
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